This morning we got up, packed up and left Kununurra. We drove for an hour or so and then turned off to have a look at Lake Argyle. This enormous lake was created when a single dam wall was built to block the flow of the Ord River.
The lake is just huge – it is over 90 km long and holds 17 times the water held in Sydney Harbour (now that’s big!). We unhooked the vans and trailer and enjoyed a really picturesque drive around the loop road and over the wall. The huge crocodile swimming around in the spillway waters convinced us this wasn’t a good place to swim!
We stopped off at the shady, green picnic area for a while and Danni and I enjoyed lazing around on the cool grass. We took some flattering pics (using the “let gravity make you look younger” method) and basically just ponced around for a while.
After this, we stopped off at the Durack Homestead for a look. This homestead used to be located in what is now the bottom of the dam – when they dammed the river, they pulled the homestead apart and then re-built it exactly as it was on higher ground. The homestead was the home of the Durack family – famous for a range of things – the men were pioneers, politicians and business men and the women included Mary Durack – author of “Kings of Grass Castles” amongst other famous Australian books, Fanny Durack – Olympic gold medallist swimmer, and another Durack woman who was a famous artist (but I can’t remember her name). A pretty talented bunch really!
We looked through the homestead and I was particularly impressed with Mary’s poetry – which is displayed through the house. The following is one of her poems – displayed beside pictures of aboriginal rock art from the area:Her tribe is vanished
With daughter and sons.
All her people
Lie under the sand,
Nothing to prove
That she’d ever lived…
But the faint outline
Of a stencilled hand.
In earth red ochre
Or charcoal line
- So many caves
With the same mute sign.
I trace the shape
With a pensive finger,
Why do I linger?
An ancient sadness
Chills this place.
That’s why I stop
And pause,
Dark sister without name
Or face
I place my hand on yours
The long unmeasured years
Divide us
Too late
Too late – for meeting
But in this quiet,
Forsaken cave
Hands touch
In greeting.
What an amazing family this was, and what an incredible legacy they forged out in some of the most difficult country.
After leaving the homestead, we called in to have a look at Dead Horse Spring. No dead horses, but quite a lovely view!
We left Lake Argyle and continued our journey. Straight after lunch we crossed the Northern Territory border. Paddy and Danni got out for the obligatory photo at the sign
and then Danny straddled the border and got quite confused as her left side was one and a half hours behind her right!
We took careful note of the new state speed limit. 130 kph might seem like a lot – but until recently there was NO speed limit on NT country roads.
Just for the heck of it- I coaxed Fred up to 130 kph….. he managed ok, but seemed relieved when we dropped back to our usual travelling speed of 95 kph (Danni also seemed relieved – can’t think why!)We continued on through some magnificent landscape – towering red rocks and magnificent, curving rivers.
We stopped to get some photos on the Victoria River and had hoped to camp out near Timber Creek. The one camping area was jammed full and we didn’t fancy staying at the Timber Creek caravan park (it was empty – but the town was full of some very noisy sounding people). Before we left Timber Creek – we had a look at the lookout – great views! We also emptied our wallets at the service station ($2.02 per litre for unleaded – ouch!)We continued on to Victoria River, where we have camped for the night. We have found a lovely little campground attached to the roadhouse and will hang around here a day or so to have a look around – the Gregory National Park looks sensational!
Hello again blogsters….. tomorrow just turned into today and has happened – so I had better write about what we did!
We were a little late getting up (trying to get used to NT time as opposed to WA time). After breaky, we got organised and headed out to explore the Gregory National Park. We called in to have a look at the boat-ramp and met up with a not-too-happy snake. I think it was Mum and Dad driving over the top of him which effected his temper – but he wasn’t happy! I stopped for a photo, but didn’t get out of the car – his mood seemed to indicate that I would not be welcome.
We stopped off to have a go at the escarpment walk. We headed up the trail – lots of steps to climb – but the view was great. Mum, Dad and Uncle John stopped just a bit before half way – and Danni and I soldiered on.
We kept thinking we were almost there – but we weren’t!
It was so hot – with heat radiating off the rocks. We were pretty relieved when we FINALLY got to the top – the views were sensational (thank goodness – I would have been pretty peeved if it had been ordinary after 1.5 km of climbing 495 steps – yes I counted them – and scrambling over numerous rocks and slogging up steep slopes).
Anyway we took some pictures and then quickly
turned round to head back down – it was just too hot to be up there too long.After refreshing ourselves with a heap more water (and 2 lemonade icypoles) we then drove out for a look at the old Victoria River Crossing. It was lovely – but I wasn’t at all tempted to try to drive across.
We drove on out to the Joe Creek picnic ground and feasted on chicken sandwiches for lunch. Then we set out to walk the Nawulbinbin walk. This walk involved a fairly steep climb to start with and then we scrambled over rocks under the wall of the escarpment.
Danni and I just loved the aboriginal rock art – sensational pictures which have been there for thousands of years.
Mum, Dad and Uncle John were a little way behind us an
d we were stunned when they got to the end of the walk and expressed their disappointment at not having seen any rock art. NOT SEEN ANY….. it stretched for about 500 metres, at eye level, right beside where they were walking. Some of the figures were as tall as me. Not sure what they had in their water bottles…… but it must have been strong! To their credit however, they did do a great job of completing what was at times a challenging walk.
After the walk, we had a quick look at the Victoria River Bridge before heading back to camp for a shower – we were all filthy after our sweaty day’s exertion. As consolation, I showed Mum and Dad my photos of the rock art so at least they could see what they missed!Tomorrow we will head off again, through Katherine and up to Pine Creek.
As an aside - the flowers and trees are just magnificent here. We are constantly seeing wonderful, colourful flowers. The picture below shows just a few of the flowers on a tree which seems quite abundant around here. Just magnificent!

Hi to Kelley - great to hear from you. And HELLO BETHANIE - no, I haven't forgotten you and I know you read the blog. Love you bub!

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